Day one: the spine of the medina
Start early at Bab Boujloud and walk down Talaa Kebira, the long street that runs through the whole medina. The Bou Inania madrasa is the first stop, then the fondouks, the Nejjarine museum and its fountain, and the Chouara tannery from the terraces of the leather shops. Lunch near the Quaraouiyine, then let the lanes bring you back down towards R'cif.
Day two: the quarters
The second day is for the parts tourists miss. The Andalusian quarter across the river, the potters of Ain Nokbi, the Jewish mellah and the royal palace gates in Fès el-Jdid. Come back for tea on the roof.
